Some coffee in Korea is not that of connoisseurs: busan edition with Jay Song
BUSAN, South Korea -- South Korea's cities are overrun with cafés. According to the Samsung Economic Research Institute, the number of coffee shops here jumped from about 6,000 in 2008 to 9,400 in 2011. Other studies put the number as high as 17,000 in Seoul alone. There are so many coffee shops in the South Korean capital that the Fair Trade Commission set a limit on the distance between new coffeehouse chains to at least 500 meters.
In addition to Starbucks, which is run by Shinsegae, 40 percent of the nation's cafés are run by the top five Korean brands: Caffe Bene, Hollys Coffee, Ediya Coffee, Angel-in-us and Tom n' Toms.
A common complaint amongst both expats and an increasing number of Koreans is that chain coffee is cheaply roasted, weak in strength and lacking in taste. This is driving Korea's coffeeholics to seek out better alternatives in smaller roasting companies and independent cafés.
Considering that last year 63 percent of the coffee consumed in Korea was dispersed from a powdery packet, it will take time for a stampede to rush towards indie coffee shops. Even Jay Song has her doubts.
The simple fact is that price is, sometimes, more important than taste.
Cafe Momos (Oncheonjang)
Just outside exit 2 of the subway station, Cafe Momos is ranked as the founder of fine coffee in Korea. You can taste freshly roasted coffee from various regions, as well as dig on some great home-baked goods, all in one funky multi-level spot. 051-512-7034 www.momos.co.kr
My Table All Day Café (Marine City)
Jay Song judiciously picks her beans, but has an affinity for Guatemalan beans. She also features her own Dutch coffees as well as an excellent selection of organic homemade foods and goodies to enjoy with your cup of joe. 051-744-8989 www.cafemytable.com
Fresh Cups (Haeundae)
Right outside exit 5 of the Jung-dong station in Haeundae, Fresh Cups roasts their own beans in-house and makes arguably the best café frappe in the world. Check out the tasty blueberry chicken salad sandwich and an awesome crème brûlée. 051-747-3560 blog.naver.com/freshcups
In Earth Coffee (Songjeong Beach)
Along with roasting their own coffee, In Earth Coffee also serves a variety of tasty pastries that they bake twice daily in their own kitchen. It also ranks as one of the top indie coffee shops in Korea and is a sure spot for a consistent cup of quality brew. 051-703-7666
Blackup Coffee Factory (Seomyeon and Nampo)
With their slogan Rebuilding Coffee Culture, Blackup Coffee Factory runs two shops in Busan. You can enjoy coffee and many different kinds of desserts in their shops, which are stylized with a very hip and contemporary aesthetic. 070-4248-4952 www.blackupcoffee.com
Adagio (Haeundae)
One of the oldest roasters in town, Adagio is behind the large department store just outside Jangsan station exit 4 and has been roasting fresh beans since 2001. You pick the beans and Kim Young-han roasts it up for you right away. 1544-1895